Fiebing's Leather Dye

Fiebing's Leather Dye

Fiebing's Leather Dye

I used this product to dye 2 large leather chairs that were very worn due to pets. I am very pleased with the results for the price. Our chairs look new again & will give us many more years of use! Thanks for selling such a quality affordable solution.

I was able to restore TWO Louis Vuitton vernis (patent leather) pieces with this oxblood dye. Now just to note, I used the same oxblood dye on both LV pieces, yet the colors turned out radically different....because the STARTING color will determine the END color. I knew this going into the project. Forewarned is forearmed. I did not dilute the dye in any way, both pieces were dyed using straight oxblood dye.

That said I love the way these dyed patent leather pieces turned out. The dye was...omg, so insanely messy to apply. Wear gloves. And cover your working surface with a large trashbag or two. You have to start in small amounts otherwise it runs. Patent leather is funny to dye, as you have to apply it, and then wipe it off with a rag almost immediately, as it dries/absorbs very quickly.. Wipe down with either non-acetone/or acetone nail polish remover before you start and then between coats to remove excess dye, otherwise you'll end up with streaks and dullness. Some patent leather does not absorb dye easily...even on the same piece. So, for example, on the wallet, I had to add dye repeatedly to certain areas more than others to get a more even color. I used the included wool dauber to put the dye on, and a rag to wipe it off.

Dye comes off of skin with non-acetone nail polish remover and soap & water. Dye does NOT come off of other surfaces (like, say, a porch floor). Do your work in a safe, well-ventilated location. Protect whatever surfaces you are working on or around.

FWIW, the red pochette started out yellowish, and took 2 coats of fiebings oxblood to reach a candy-apple red color. The wallet started out pearl in color, and took about 10 coats to reach a bright saturated pink. I originally used Fiebings Leather Sheen Spray to seal it, but hated how it took away the glossiness. I ended up stripping it off with non-acetone nail polish remover, and am going to leave the pieces unsealed. They are so glossy both indoors and outside!

I'm ordering more of this color to dye another LV purse I have coming....it is such a versatile color. It can either be a nice bright pink if you are working with white or pearl, or change to a bright red if the base color is more yellow. Fiebings leather dye is a great way to cover color-transfer marks on patent, or change up an older light colored patent purse to a more vibrant color. Its a little tricky to work with, but if the bag is junk otherwise or destined for goodwill, it makes for a fun project and potential home-run purse in the end! I am not a pro at this, this was my second attempt at dyeing patent leather, and I learned alot from other people on various FB restoration groups. But its so fun to create a transformation and now I'm hooked!

I had an expensive chair with bright red leather that no longer worked in my living room decor. So I took the plunge and tried out this product after watching some videos about dyeing furniture with Fiebing's leather dye. I skipped the deglazing step and instead scrubbed the chair down with 50% vinegar 50% water solution. Then I applied 4 coats of dark brown dye (2.5 4 oz bottles; It dried quickly, so I did this all in one day). On day 2 I touched up a few areas, then topped with 2 coats of Fiebing's resolene (less than 1 4 oz. bottle). To get the areas between the cushions, and the areas against the wood frame, I held the cushions apart and incrementally reclined the chair. I hit these areas with a blow drier so I didn't have to hold these areas for a long time. End result: the chair looks brand new and looks like it was always dark brown. I am amazed and thrilled with the results!

**UPDATE**
In my original review, I say that you don't need a Deglazer or a sealant. I was using the purse in the winter months, so it never rubbed off on anything. I put it in the closet now, and this week, I took it out in the rain for the first time. I am also having it over my bare shoulders for the first time. When I sweat, the dye gets on my skin. Also, whenever the leather cracks, I can still see the red underneath. I also keep noticing tiny red spots I missed. It's not entirely necessary to buy all 3 products, but it will most definitaly give you the best, most professional-looking results. I now plan on buying the sealant to prevent the dye from rubbing off when it gets moist.
*****

A few months ago, I found a red Kate Spade purse at a thrift store that had very faded and discolored red leather, but other than that, it was structurally in great condition. I decided I would save it by dying it black. The Fiebings Leather Dye package claims that before you dye leather, you should buy their Deglazer product to strip the previous dye or color off. Once I read that, I held off for about two months while I waited to have the extra cash to spend on the Deglazer product.

I finally decided that I would just go ahead and see how well the black dyed the red leather. I decided that in the worse case scenario, it looks terrible and I can buy the deglazer product to remove it all over again. I cleaned the area with leather wipes (Available in most automotive sections.) and began dying it...and it worked great!

Keep in mind that there is a huge possibility that this stuff is going to drip...Everywhere. My hands are black. My desk is still black even after using a Magic Eraser. Be careful when you are dying. Keep in mind that a little dye goes a long way.

I had to put tape over top of the purse sections I did not want getting dyed. Thankfully, when it got on the Kate Spade metal plaque, it came off with some brass cleaner. I also used a very small and thin paint brush to reach the little nooks and crannies that the applicator could not reach.

I have added a couple photos to this review. One of the finished product, and the second photo is of the inside zipper so you can see what color red the bag originally was.

This was my first time ever dying leather, and I will continue to do this for the rest of my life. I can't tell you how many times I have seen once-expensive leather couches and chairs at yard sales and thrift stores where the color has been faded. Looking back, all it needed was a new coat of leather dye, and it is good as new.

This one purse used probably 1/3 of the bottle, so there is still plenty left for me to keep around in case I need to dye anything else. I will be re-purchasing Fiebings brand in the future if I ever need any other colors. I highly recommend it.

Before finding this product, I wasn't even sure you could dye leather. I had an old 1 seater given to me but did not love the color. I dyed it black (took about 1 and a half bottles) after using the fiebings degreaser and then used the acrylic coating.


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Feature Product

  • Most recognized penetrating, alcohol-based leather dye in the world
  • For use on vegetable tanned or unfinished leather
  • Will not peel, crack or rub-off when fully dry while remaining flexible
  • Also works well when applied with a dry sponge or included wool dauber
  • Use Fiebing's dye reducer to lighten tint and consistency

Description

The most recognized penetrating, alcohol-based leather dye in the world. Dries uniformly and mixes easily to create interesting middle tones. Each 4 ounce bottle includes one wool dauber. Stock colors black, dark brown, medium brown, maroon, light brown and burgundy.



My favorite thrift store find was a Coach purse for less than $10. It is the absolute perfect size and shape but the white was not working out for me. I found this product and read several reviews and went ahead and ordered it in black.

I had actually washed it in the washing machine (I know...) and wiped it down with 91% isopropyl alcohol and went to work. The applicator made it a quick and easy process and I did two full layers, changing my strokes from horizontal to vertical for even coverage. I waited about an hour and used Leather Honey to condition it afterwards with minimal dye transfer, so I’ll let it sit for a couple days before using it again.

In true me form, I proceeded to spill half the bottle on my linoleum countertop. I absorbed as much as I could with paper towels and layed more paper towels soaked in the alcohol over the stain. A green kitchen scrub sponge and some elbow grease and the stain came out with no evidence of the spill.

Used this to dye some Coach leather goods that I own and I just wanted to make a couple of meaningful points.

A little goes a long way, andf this small bottle will dye a ton of leather things. So, if you are on the fence about getting one or two bottles, get one.

It runs a tad darker than you'd think. So, medium brown, like I got, is very brown. Hard to explain, but I'm just letting you know if you are on the fence about going lighter or darker, go lighter.

Like the other reviewer said, this stuff is very hard to get out. Once it dries on the leather, it dries firmly and does not rub off. You could buy the leather cleaner tp prep the leather befor applying this product, but I did what many online sites mention and used baby wipes, pre-moistened and unscented. They work wonders on all leather and it's a good tip to use them. Then, once dry, apply this dye.

The dobber they give you with this small bottle is very excellent for small areas (less than a few inches across) or for piping.edging. For larger surfaces, you;ll want to buy a few cheap disposable foam paint brushes.

Don't for a second get this on your hands (it takes a week to come off totally), on the floor, or even in your sink My stainless steel sink got some from my washing up, and it;s still there a month later. No amount of ammonia and scrubbing seems to take it off, but some Soft Scrub and elbow grease has it improved. And it stains instantly, so best to do this outdoors.

I also use Leather Honey for general mosturizing and care, and I've written a review of that product, it;s colorless, odorless, and is slightly oily, it is like clear honey when you put it on, and I like it, too, very much. Enjoy! .Leather Honey Leather Conditioner, the Best Leather Conditioner Since 1968, 32 Oz Bottle

I used this to dye a leather sofa. Three 4 oz. bottles should do the job. It's messy, so work in a space that can get dye splatters. Before applying, I stripped the couch with a combo of lemon juice and rubbing alcohol after cleaning. I poured the dye a little at a time into a larger container and then, I applied Fiebing's Leather Dye with a foam brush and let it dry for at least 24 hours. I am still waiting to finish a couple things on it before a seal/condition the sofa, but this is an AMAZING, budget-friendly route if you want to refresh your leather furniture.

UPDATE: I did the cushions of the sofa indoors, but I did the body of the sofa outside on a breezy day. The sofa body developed a metallic sheen to it. After some googling, I found out this is because it dried too quickly outdoors and the dye didn't get to penetrate the leather all the way. To fix this, I took a rag with rubbing alcohol and wiped the sofa down in small areas and then wiped off excess dye with a dry cloth. It fixed the problem just fine.

I recently scored a pair of cherry-red British-made 8-eye DMs off a buddy of mine that they didn't fit. Worn in but in really good condition. I've never liked the bright-red color, and the old-school way of polishing over then with black takes a long time and still never gave me the color I wanted. I recently watched a YouTube video that showed using leather dye to achieve the desired deep, dark red 'oxblood' color and decided to try it myself.
The whole process was rather easy. I prepped an area with newspapers and a couple old towels. I recommend doing this in a well-ventilated area as both the acetone and the dye have strong odors. You will want to do this somewhere non-carpeted as this dye is VERY permanent and you will not get it out of anything it touches. Gloves are a must too as I would imagine this stuff would dye your hands for days or weeks. I used masking tape to protect the yellow stitching, soles, and Air-Wair tags (as I mentioned the dye is VERY permanent, mask off anything you don't want dyed permanently dark red or whatever color you're using). I used 100% acetone and cotton balls to strip the original finish off. I used the included dabber to wipe on a layer of the oxblood dye on both boots on all the leather surfaces including the tongue. The dye seems to initially dry very quickly but I let them dry overnite and did a second layer the following evening. After adding a layer of the resolene sealer, the boots took on a nice sheen without being too shiny. I would imagine you could pilishband buff these to whatever level of shine you desire. They went from that fire-engine cherry-red to a really deep, dark oxblood. They already look great but I think that after polishing a little black into the creases these boots will have a really smart 'vintage' look to them. It also helped mask some toe-scuffs very well. I would imagine that black dye on black boots applied the same way would make them look damn-near brand-new. I have a pair of black 8-eyes that I may try it on.
Very pleased with the results and would totally recommend this dye for refinishing your boots or giving them a makeover.

Excellent product! Revived finish on 30-year old couch! I went slightly darker than original leather color based on other reviews and the Cordovan was a great match for me (DEEP wine/burgundy). Very easy and very messy. I tried foam art brushes in attempt to cover more at a time but the dauber worked best. I only managed to splatter dye everywhere not wanted when using the foam brushes. I am back to buy a second bottle. One bottle might have been able to do the entirety of the arms, cushion tops, cushion fronts and cushion backs (am not doing remainder of couch) but my leather was sooooo dry that the dye sucked into the leather immediately on contact at any point so it really drank it up. I didn't use a deglazer as there was very little, if any, finish remaining on the sofa. I am attaching photos before starting the last section of the sofa. I only have one layer of dye applied and may not need another. I have not yet applied a second coat, conditioner nor finishing product in the attached photo. I was going to trash the couch but with its insanely heavy frame, thick cowhide upholstery and at an original cost of $3,000 (three decades ago!), I decided to give one shot at dye job and re-stuffing cushions before putting it to the curb. So glad I did!

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